The Zones

Concentric, measured, deliberate.

Three zones. One system. Built for the Rocky Mountain wildland-urban interface.

Whether you’re on a flat Wyoming plain, a Colorado foothill, or a Montana valley — this zone framework adapts to your property and your climate.

The Ember-Resistant Zone
0
0–5 ft from structure

The Ember-Resistant Zone

The most critical five feet on your property. No combustible plants, no mulch, no woodpiles — but absolutely not a barren strip. Use mineral aggregate, dry-laid stone, low succulents in containers, and architectural agaves. Treat it like the garden's threshold: deliberate, jewel-like, almost minimalist. In the Mountain West, this zone also protects against wind-driven embers — which travel differently at altitude and in high-wind corridors common to Wyoming and Colorado.

  • Stone, decomposed granite, or concrete pavers
  • Containers of agave, sedum, or sempervivum only
  • Clean gutters; cover vents with 1/8″ ember mesh
  • Nothing that drops leaves or sheds bark
The Lean, Lush Zone
1
5–30 ft from structure

The Lean, Lush Zone

Where most of the visible 'garden' lives. Drifts of low-water perennials separated by gravel paths and stone. Plants are well-irrigated, well-spaced, and chosen for low fuel volume. Think mountain modern meets high-desert naturalism — lavender, native sage, yarrow, and serviceberry in spaced drifts with decomposed granite between them. Stunning in every season and almost zero water after year one.

  • Lavender, salvia, yarrow, santolina in drifts
  • Plant clusters separated by 4–6 ft of mineral mulch
  • Drip irrigation on every bed
  • Trees limbed up 6 ft; crowns 10 ft apart
The Reduced-Fuel Zone
2
30–100 ft from structure

The Reduced-Fuel Zone

Where the garden meets the wild. The goal isn't a clear-cut — it's a thinned, edited, intentional transition. Quaking aspen groves, limbed-up ponderosa pines, native bunchgrasses kept low, and rough stone walls as fuel breaks. It should look like the best version of the wild land you already live in.

  • Tree crowns spaced 10–20 ft apart
  • Remove all dead wood and ladder fuels
  • Native grasses mowed to 4″ in dry season
  • Stone walls or DG paths as fuel breaks

On slopes: extend Zone 1 to 50 feet on the downhill side for grades over 20%, and to 100 feet for grades over 40%. In the Mountain West, hillside properties are common and the rules change significantly — ask about slope-specific consulting.