The Zones

Concentric, measured, deliberate.

Three zones radiate from your home. Each has its own visual language and its own job in slowing a wildfire down.

The Ember-Resistant Zone
0
0–5 ft from structure

The Ember-Resistant Zone

The most critical five feet on your property. No combustible plants, no mulch, no woodpiles — but absolutely not a barren strip. Use mineral aggregate, dry-laid stone, low succulents in containers, and architectural agaves. Treat it like the garden's threshold: deliberate, jewel-like, almost minimalist.

  • Stone, decomposed granite, or concrete pavers
  • Containers of agave, sedum, or sempervivum only
  • Clean gutters; cover vents with 1/8″ ember mesh
  • Nothing that drops leaves or sheds bark
The Lean, Lush Zone
1
5–30 ft from structure

The Lean, Lush Zone

Where most of the visible 'garden' lives. Drifts of low-water perennials separated by gravel paths and stone. Plants are well-irrigated, well-spaced, and chosen for low fuel volume. Think Mediterranean courtyard meets high-desert modernism.

  • Lavender, salvia, yarrow, santolina in drifts
  • Plant clusters separated by 4–6 ft of mineral mulch
  • Drip irrigation on every bed
  • Trees limbed up 6 ft; crowns 10 ft apart
The Reduced-Fuel Zone
2
30–100 ft from structure

The Reduced-Fuel Zone

Where the garden meets the wild. The goal isn't a clear-cut — it's a thinned, edited, intentional transition. Specimen oaks and madrones, manzanita drifts, rough-mown native grasses kept low. It should look like a particularly good national-park trailhead.

  • Tree crowns spaced 10–20 ft apart
  • Remove all dead wood and ladder fuels
  • Native grasses mowed to 4″ in dry season
  • Stone walls or DG paths as fuel breaks